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Grense Jakobselv: The northern beginning of the Iron Curtain

Where Norway seems to end, the Iron Curtain begins: in Grense Jakobselv. The view is of the vastness of the Barents Sea. Small beaches alternate with rocks that reach into the sea. Some tourists enjoy the impressive natural surroundings while a family has a picnic on the beach. Four young people in uniform sit relaxed in the sun on wooden benches. They are members of the Norwegian border troops who are on duty here. They are immediately ready to talk, as one of their tasks is to inform people coming to the end of Norway about how they should behave at the border with Russia, which forms both the eastern flank of NATO and the border of the Schengen area. I learn that it is not permitted to take photos of military installations such as border towers and border buildings on the Russian and Norwegian sides. Fortunately, I am allowed to take photos of the border posts on both sides. The female and young border guards are happy to smile at the camera, but they put their jackets on first so that their uniforms are correct. At the same time, however, I am informed that it is forbidden to photograph people on the Russian side, approach them or make contact with them in any other way.

 

One of the tasks of the border troops is to monitor the border. To do this, they patrol along the border, sometimes on foot, observe from the border towers located on the mountains and use film cameras.

 

The almost 200 kilometre-long border between Norway and Russia is largely determined by the course of the Jakobselva and Pasvikelva rivers. The Jakobselva, which flows into the Barents Sea at the small village of Grense Jakobselv, is a narrow, wild river that meanders idyllically through a mountainous, rugged landscape. It is popular with locals for salmon fishing. However, due to the border situation, only Norwegians are allowed to fish here. Russia is only ever a few metres away when fishing.

 

The border between Norway (in personal union with Sweden) and the Russian Empire was only established in 1826. The area was previously inhabited by Sami. There was no border. Since the 14th century, it was only determined whether taxes had to be paid to Finland, Norway or Russia, depending on the place of residence. This makes Norway's eastern border with Russia the country's most recent border.