Looking at the new border fence at the closed border crossing from Vartius in Finland to Lyttä in Russia, the name of my project ‘ironcurtain2greenbelt’ sounds ironic. A new path was cut through the seemingly endless forest in the Finnish-Russian border region to make room for a road and a five-metre-high metal fence with spirally wound barbed wire. "The fence is only a few days old and is still new to us. Until last year, there were still trees here, just like on the Russian side," explains Jouko Kinnunen. He manages the Vartius border guard station, one of five border stations in the Kainuu region on the Finnish-Russian border. ‘We are responsible for around 60 kilometres of border.’ I'm not told exactly how long the fence is here. The official statements are ‘several kilometres’ and ‘the longest sections of border fence are in south-eastern Finland’. There are plans to build a total of 200 kilometres of border fence along the 1340-kilometre Finnish-Russian border.
The chief of the border guard station and his colleague, Senior Border Guard (he does not want his name to be publicised), make it clear that the fence alone is not enough. "A lot of technology is used to ensure that border surveillance is effective. And we also need people and dogs to do our job."
The border crossing point was opened for international traffic in 1992. "On average, around 300,000 people used this border crossing every year. In 2001 and 2002, there were even half a million people," reports the employee of the Finnish Border Guard (Rajavartiolaitos).
The border crossing has been completely closed since the end of 2023. Goods trains are also no longer running. "We don't know when this border crossing will reopen. Probably nobody knows," he adds.
The Finnish parliament has passed a temporary law allowing border guards to turn back asylum seekers at the borders until 2026. The law was justified on the grounds of Russia's hybrid warfare, including instrumentalised migration. ‘It's a tough law,’ comments the Chief of the Border Guard Station. ‘We do everything in advance so that we don't have to apply it. But we are prepared for it.’
Directly on the border, above the road where vehicles used to drive until 1.5 years ago, there is now a sturdy steel gate in the fence. A Russian border guard patrols the other side. Jouko Kinnunen shows a small gate next to the large one. "That's for pedestrians and we use it when we meet up with our Russian colleagues. "That happens a few times a year. We describe the current border situation, discuss our border agreement and how we deal with border crossings by reindeer, dogs or people." An important means of communication between the border control authorities is the fax. There are an estimated 200 faxes per year between the two authorities.
The border between Finland and Russia in the Kainuu region, which is over 400 kilometres long, is an old border dating back to 1595. While the border has been moved from time to time in other regions of Finland, it has remained unchanged here over the centuries. That's why there are no border posts and only a few places - usually where the border bends - where there are old stone markers, some of which are 430 years old.
It is only possible to go directly to the 1340-kilometre-long Finnish-Russian border with a special permit. ‘There is a border protection zone on the Finnish side that is up to three kilometres wide, depending on the terrain,’ explains Jouko Kinnunen. Signs and barriers indicate this. ‘Anyone who doesn't adhere to the rules can expect a fine,’ adds Senior Border Guard.
‘We walk particularly risky sections of the border every day, less risky sections two or three times a week or as often as necessary to make sure nothing happens.’ We go on foot, sometimes with specially trained dogs, but also use cars, snowmobiles, skis, helicopters and drones." In addition, a lot of very different technology is used directly at the border and throughout the border area, so that any anomalies are registered very early on. The Chief of the border guard station says that I should assume that my tour by bike was noticed long before I crossed the gate of the closed border crossing. The border patrol also receives support from the few people who live in the border region or have weekend homes. "They also report anomalies to us. We receive information up to about 50 kilometres inland."
The two border guard employees describe their main task as follows: "We make sure that everything is in order. If we see nothing but forests and lakes, everything is fine."
Senior border guard is also a dog handler. He has his own German shepherd, which he brings with him on duty. The dogs' most important task is to find human tracks, even after 20 hours if possible. The man loves his job. "For me, it's the best job I can imagine. I love being out in the forest and being with my dog. And I really wanted to stay in my home area around Kuhmo. And there aren't that many job opportunities here," he says, summarising his motivation.
According to the two employees of the Finnish Border Guard, there are no problems finding new employees for the Border Guard. ‘Every year, there are around 800 applications for 100 places at the Border Guard Academy in Imatra in south-east Finland.’ The work of the border guards is highly recognised, especially in eastern Finland. "People trust us and the system. And we do our best."
