The number 50 on the flower bed seems a little small. Is there not much to celebrate? Or is 50 years a relatively young age for a city? Visaginas is, in fact, the youngest city in Lithuania. The sole reason it was founded in 1975 was the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant, located about 10 kilometers away.
The plant was intended to be the largest nuclear power station in the Soviet Union. When it was commissioned in 1983, it was already considered the most powerful plant in the world, designed to supply energy to Lithuania, Latvia, Belarus, and Kaliningrad. This required a workforce, and those workers needed housing. So, construction began on a new city in a pine forest on the shore of the over 200-hectare Lake Visaginas. Originally, the city was supposed to be shaped like a butterfly with four wings embracing the northern shore.
But things changed. In 1986, the reactor catastrophe occurred in Chernobyl, about 500 kilometers away. Since the Ignalina power plant had the same type of reactor, expansion plans were halted. The further development of the city also stopped. The "butterfly" only got two wings and could never truly fly. In 2009, the nuclear power plant was finally shut down. Since then, the city has been trying to reinvent itself.
Optimism and Challenges
Tatjana Dmitrieva and Anastasija Jevtiuchova work at the city's tourist information center and are doing their best to improve the city's image. They are optimistic and convinced that the city has passed its lowest point. They say the population decline has stopped, and young families are moving in. It is estimated that the city was planned for up to 80,000 residents. The highest population the city had was over 33,000 people in the mid-1990s. Today, it's just over 19,000.
Tatjana and Anastasija not only help tourists, but also work against the stereotypes associated with their city. Visaginas is often seen as a "Russian city" within Lithuania. Workers were recruited from all over the Soviet Union. Tatjana's parents, for example, came from Belarus in the mid-1970s to the new city, which is considered a classic example of Soviet planned architecture. The skeptical looks from outsiders can sometimes be frustrating. Tatjana and Anastasija both grew up in Visaginas, spending their childhood and youth here before going to Vilnius and the UK for university. Russian is their native language, and they learned Lithuanian at school and university. Both have returned and now live here with their families. They fondly remember their own childhood in the city and want to provide the same for their children. "Everything is within walking distance. The children can go to sports alone or meet their friends at the lake," Anastasija says with a smile.
A Conservative Society with a Safe Haven for Youth
Amidst this peaceful setting, Alexej Urazov has created a space for young people in a five-story apartment building who feel out of place in the city because they are "different" and don't conform to the norm.
"Visaginas is a conservative place," Alexej explains. "As long as you look and act like everyone else and meet expectations, life in Visaginas is good."
The lake, with all its recreational and water activities, is not just figuratively on the doorstep. It's easily accessible from most apartment blocks via short footpaths through the pine forest. There's an underpass beneath the main road, so people can safely get to the beach. The shore paths are perfect for walks or bike rides. On a hot summer evening, families stroll along the wide promenades. Children with wet hair, wearing swimsuits and flip-flops, have towels wrapped around them. It feels a bit like a beach holiday, not everyday life.
Inside the cultural center "Točka," Alexej is sitting on the floor with Daria, 13, and Ervinas, 16, surrounded by beads, craft materials, and other knick-knacks. They are completely absorbed in their creative environment, meditatively gluing beads onto wooden flotsam. A Harry Potter event is planned for the weekend, and they are making decorations.
"I founded this place eight years ago because as a teenager in Visaginas, I didn't have such a place, but I desperately needed one," says the 42-year-old. "Every city really needs a place like this, but Visaginas might need it even more urgently. Although the city's society is multicultural, the Russian language and culture form a common framework that has created a kind of 'Soviet identity.' This identity contributes to a more conservative and conforming social structure, where alternative lifestyles have less space."
The teenagers who come to "Točka" are aged between 13 and 18. "They are all hurt in some way in their personalities and are searching. Here, they have the security and freedom to discover and develop themselves." Many identify with the punk, gothic, or metal scenes. But for Alexej, the most important thing is that it is a safe space for the LGBTQ+ community. "There's no other place like it in the city. And that's because of the prevailing conservatism."
"If you don't conform, life is hard here. Even if you're good at school or in other areas, it's not acknowledged," Alexej shares his experience. "It's still connected to the culture of former Soviet citizens," he speculates. "And there are still many people, especially older ones, who are stuck in that culture." According to Alexej, "Gayrope" is often used as a slur to speak disparagingly about Western democracies and societies that protect the rights of LGBTQ+ people. "How are young people supposed to feel safe in this environment?"
The cultural center is not just a place to hang out. It hosts regular meetings and discussions. "We form a community and are there for each other." At "Točka," the young people practice resilience and tolerance. They learn to talk about problems and to view them from many different perspectives. Alexej sums up the house rules: no alcohol, no drugs, and respect everyone.
He communicates with the teenagers in Russian, the language they are most comfortable with. Occasionally, he'll speak to them in Lithuanian or English and praises them when they manage to respond with a few words. Daria attends a Lithuanian school. "Yes, there are good teachers there. But if they notice that the students don't understand them, they switch to Russian so the kids learn something." Alexej notes that in this environment, it's difficult to learn Lithuanian. "You have to really want to, and you have to know why you're learning it." Alexej encourages the teens to engage with the culture, history, and language of the country they live in. He also encourages them to leave Visaginas after school and see the world. "If they come back, that's great, but they have to decide for themselves where they want to live."
The work Alexej and a few colleagues do here is voluntary. The city provides them with the building for free, but they have to pay for electricity and heating. He earns his money in the mornings so he has time in the afternoons for his community of 40 to 50 young people. Two social workers also support him voluntarily. His mission is not only to help the teenagers but also to foster a new generation of young people who will discover Europe and see Lithuania as their country.
A Glimpse into the Future
According to Alexej, the city has no clear plan for its future. While young families are returning because housing is affordable and there are many recreational opportunities, he asks, "But who wants their children to grow up in this Russian-speaking environment?" He feels that the Lithuanian government has not given enough thought to the city's development, and yet, they are often seen as a problem. No one knows exactly how many people here support the Putin regime. Politics are rarely discussed in public in Visaginas. "I can do it because I'm outside the norm—with long hair and always barefoot. I often greet people with 'Slava Ukraini' or the Belarusian equivalent, 'Žyvie Biełaruś!'. Their reaction tells me whether I want to have closer contact with them or not."
Tatjana and Anastasija are grateful for Alex's dedication. "There are several activists and initiatives that want to change and develop the city," they say. Some are politically involved, while others offer outdoor activities to showcase how attractive the place is. Unemployment is not an issue in Visaginas. "Companies have settled here that are looking for workers." Anastasija is optimistic: "The people who built the city and the nuclear power plant are retired. Now it's others who are shaping life in the city, and we support them." The two women then make a final point: "Speaking Russian doesn’t define one’s political stance. We are Lithuanians, and we are not waiting for Putin."
