Druzhba. To friendship between people, families, cities, and nations. Svilengrad in Bulgaria has been a twin town of Weferlingen in Saxony-Anhalt for over 20 years. I am given two contacts whom I can visit. I get to enjoy endless hospitality, first with Valeri in Svilengrad and the next day with Valeria and Hristo in Lyubimets. It makes me realize all over again what a great concept lies behind the idea of town twinning. People from different countries meet, exchange ideas, visit each other often, friendships develop, and even outsiders like me benefit from it. "Your friends are my friends too," Valeri writes right at the beginning of our chat after I explain to him that I got his contact details from Weferlingen.
Over the two days, I am given as much food as I would normally eat in perhaps four days. And the provisions I am given for my journey are easily enough to last me the whole day.
I sit on the terrace of Valeri’s "Vila" for a long time. He explains to me that the word dacha isn’t really used in Bulgarian. Instead, vila stands for a summer house, a weekend cottage, or simply a garden house. We eat salad from his garden and endless cherries. It is raining, I am grateful to be sitting somewhere dry, and Valeri patiently answers all my questions, goes off on tangents, and we cover all sorts of topics. Life can be quite complex.
We don't always agree: the EU, the euro, refugees, border controls, support for Ukraine, a liberal Europe – often opposing viewpoints clash. But Druzhba stands above everything. In the evening, I try the homemade wines made from aronia berries and red grapes. Really just a shot glass of each. But the alcohol still goes straight to my head. We laugh together and toast. Every now and then, it gets sad and emotional. Valeri's wife Margarete passed away last year. Her picture sits in front of us on the table. Valeri talks, and suddenly a memory of their years together catches up with him, bringing tears. What comforting words can you offer when you’ve only known each other for a few hours? Druzhba!
The next evening, I am sitting with Valeria and Hristo in a Bulgarian restaurant. The table is richly laden. I get to know typical Bulgarian (vegetarian) dishes. We laugh, toast, and they tell stories of their visits to Germany and their experiences with the guests from Germany. And I realize that I am eating much too fast. In Bulgaria, dinner lasts for several hours. I apologize and explain that as a cyclist, I often don't get anything to eat. And when there is food, I have to eat. I promise to do better and vow to take my time next time.
And once again, politics enters the conversation. It seems it just can't be avoided. And once again, differing opinions and perspectives clash. Then we squeeze close together on the bench, take souvenir photos, and send them to Germany. And right away, the "hearts" come back. Friendship across nations, languages, and political views is alive.
The next morning, I get another coffee, provisions, and freshly picked mulberries, cherries, and strawberries. "See you," they say as we say goodbye, "in Germany or in Bulgaria." We don't know if it will happen, but we hope and want to stay in touch. Druzhba.
Separate posts will be published about both Valeri and Valeria.
